The Look for Alternative Models

While the field is much wider in alternative modeling, you will still be judged by your appearance. No model is perfect for every shoot. What I and other photographers are looking for is the perfect model for a specific concept. You’re stuck with the body that you were given. If I’m looking for an Amazon, and you’re 5 feet tall, no amount of high heels or attitude is going to bridge that gap. Still, opportunities for an alternative model are much greater than for a mainstream model.

There are some very specific things you can do to help your overall appearance, and I will go into those in more detail later. Two things will affect how much work you get. The first thing is your own genetics, which you can’t do anything about. The second thing is how you take care of the body you were given, and that is not only something you can change, but it’s also your job, as a model, to make this your top priority.

If you wanted to be a mainstream model, your height should be between 5’9” and 6’ tall. Your waist should be 10 inches less than your hips. You should have a toned body, long legs and be no less than a size 2 and no more than a size 6. Your age should be 12 to 21 years old and you will need healthy skin, teeth, hair and nails. If you possess all of those attributes, then congratulations, you have the bare minimum requirements to work in the fashion industry! The fashion industry is obsessed with genetics. You either have it, or you don’t.

As an alternative photographer, what I’m looking for has a lot more to do with style and attitude than with the attributes for mainstream modeling. I’ve worked with models that were short and tall, thin and thick, all ethnicities and ages. Again, style and attitude reign supreme in the alternative world.

Even if you have all the attitude and style of a top alternative model, you still have to be aware of your appearance and realize that you are competing against everyone else out there. The mainstream requirements for good skin, hair, nails and teeth, are very much in play in alternative modeling as well. You have to take care of yourself.

There’s a lot more I can say about grooming, hygiene and such (and I will), but for now, just be aware that even if you’re not concerned about it, your competition, and the photographers you want to work with, are very concerned about it. No photographer wants to spend an extra half day of work removing blemishes in PhotoShop. No hair stylist or makeup artist has the time to deal with a lifetime of bad habits. If you seriously want to be a model, then you have to take care of your body from head to toe, and from the inside out.

Unless you want to be a plus sized model, you shouldn’t carry around 10 to 20 pounds of extra weight. If you’re less than 5’7” it goes double for you, because it’s going to show quicker. Remember, you’re competing against a world full of models. If you want to be a model in high demand, then you should try to put your best foot forward. That means working out and eating better. A lot of very average looking models have risen to the top because they are in great shape. You can too.

The modeling industry has a reputation for encouraging poor eating habits, so let me be really clear on this. When I say “eating better” I mean eating healthier, not eating less. A healthy model has a look and glow that’s hard to beat. I’d much rather work with a model that is at a healthier and heavier weight than a model that is emaciated.

There’s a bunch of other simple things that will help you compete with other models too. You should get good sleep. Those bags under your eyes are not sexy! Don’t abuse either alcohol or drugs, both will destroy your good looks in very little time. Trust me. Finally, you should be drinking a lot of water. Jennifer Marks, my favorite makeup artist, has noticed how models that drink a lot of water have exceptional skin. Healthy skin is an amazing asset for a model.

Ultimately, the most important thing is that you are truly happy with how you look, because that’s going to affect how you portray yourself in front of the camera. You have to make an honest assessment of where you’re at though. The camera can be a harsh critic; you should make sure you look your best before the first shot is taken. Remember, there are a lot of models out there who want the same shoots that you do. Hard work in the gym and taking care of your body, inside and out, will give you an advantage over other models. You can’t change your genetics, but you can do the best with what you’ve got.

Dream hard,
- Dirk Hooper

January 5, 2008